ARES 70921-2-Liter Manual Brake Fluid Pressure Bleeder - Makes Brake Fluid Changes Quick and Easy - Easy One Person Manual Pump Operation

Works really good .wish it holds a bit more brake fluid. Used professionally at bmw dealership

So far verey happy with the tool.. need the adapters to use it on more vehicles.

Asked a few question before purchasing. Got alot of replies telling me yes. Used on my boat trailer with surge brakes. Never worked on brakes before as I wanted to learn encase I had brake issues on the road. This work great only issue for me was the first time using it I did not tighten the bottle to the trigger so it seemed not to work good but still pulled fluid out. Next day tried again with collection bottle tighten and it went much faster.

I give 4 star because i had to modified the fitting.

No tiren su dinero, es caro y sin exagerar succiona mas un popote en la boca que aplicarle 110 PSI a esta bomba de succión. Mejor compren una jeringa o una bomba manual.

fast shipping. As described.

It was the wrong part for my honda crv.

Summary:pros:-- one person affordable brake system flush finally-- it actually works, not most of the time, but so far every time.-- good for occasional use, unlike commercial expensive units which retain too much fluid and therefore lead to waste or worse, use of water contaminated brake fluid.-- connectors and adapters are high qualitycons:-- it is slower than the very expensive commercial units-- In my opinion, this tool would not hold up in a commercial garage in daily use. The air pump part doesn't seem particularly durable. OTOH, you can buy several of these for the price of one commercial unit.-- For some reason, Ares is very unhelpful in determining which cap to use for reservoirs.-- I managed to read enough hints on the web to correctly guess what I needed to buy (in my case, 2005 F150 and 7.3L F350 (after 2000), both use the Ares 18002-50.7mm adapter. Probably works on many other vehicles, but you will just have to measure the reservoir and count the tabs, and hope you guess right).-- you get to print the manual from the website, directions are not included (at least, not with my tool).Finally a tool that is both reasonably priced and allows one person brake fluid flushes. I have use the "helper" method, and the "vacuum bleeder" methods-- helper, you need another person, OK for something simple like a caliper replace but consumes a lot of the helper's time for a system bleed. I have had poor luck with the vacuum bleeders, because the bleeder screws allow air to leak past the threads so I can't tell if the system is air free (yes, I've used all the usual methods in an attempt to seal the threads: teflon tape, teflon thread goop, heavy grease, silicone grease, stack of o-rings... best I can manage is 25% success. Not good enough, I use the vacuum bleeder now to pull fluid out of the reservoir now, works great for that).The Ares tool attaches to the brake reservoir, and once filled and pumped up it replaces fluid that flows out when the brake bleeder is opened. Finally, a way that actually reliably works for one person brake bleeding-- particularly useful for doing a brake system flush.But... there is a learning curve. Here are some hints:-- wear safety glasses-- if you disconnect this tool with pressure still in the container, brake fluid will spray out. Bad enough on skin, don't want brake fluid in your eyes.-- as the manual notes, check the level in the tool periodically, as you do not want to get air in the system if the Ares tank runs dry and the reservoir then empties-- why? for too many vehicles this means a difficult/complicated process of bleeding the ABS hydraulic components. Don't go there.-- I wrapped some pig blankets around the reservoir just in case there was spillage-- did not happen, but I don't want brake fluid spilling on anything, particularly painted surfaces. I did find that there is significant leakage from the disconnected reservoir adapter/tubing, the pig blankets worked well for that.-- when I first set this up, the air bleeder leaked (this is the button to press to let out air pressure prior to disconnecting tool from vehicle). It is a threaded gadget with a spring, just tighten the silver button part. No hint from the sparse manual, I guess you figure this out on your own. Disconcerting to hear that tell tale hissing when pumping up the Ares, I was thinking "defective" but this was not the case.-- Be sure the brake fluid reservoir is not at max level. Each time this tool is used, including when adding more fluid to the Ares tool tank, somewhat more brake fluid ends up in the vehicle reservoir; I started at max level and had to remove some brake fluid from the vehicle reservoir because the reservoir went over max level.-- in a similar vein... if you are doing a vehicle flush suck out the old reservoir fluid and add fresh fluid, just don't need to spend time flushing the reservoir fluid AND the lines for the first caliper. Yes, obvious, until you just connected and pumped up your new toy and realize... yes... forgot this step.-- you need a more or less flat surface near the brake reservoir to set the Ares tool. For my first use, one truck had a convenient battery, other one I used a piece of plywood on top of the engine. I did not want to get fluid on the air valve if the Ares pitched over on its side (might spray out some brake fluid when relieving pressure).-- the silicone tubing seems to be 5mm ID x 8mm OD, which also works well as bleeder hose-- I found that the bleeding rate was slow enough, that at the end of the process for flushing the brakes, I could allow the Ares to just flush out the balance of the fluid into the brake system and last bleeder, allowing some air into the reservoir to reduce the level somewhat below max-- enough time to get to the bleeder and close it before too much fluid was pumped from the reservoir. I was using about 15psi on the Ares gauge.-- If the Ares brake bleeder tool is only occasionally used, have isopropyl alcohol on had for flushing. Otherwise the old brake fluid sits there soaking up water for ages, potentially contaminating your next brake bleeding. (method: pump out all the DOT3 in tank by using the air pump on the unit and directing waste fluid into waste receptacle, add the isopropyl (I used 99% anhydrous, so that it evaporates out faster, but this adds to the cost vs. cheap local store bought 70% isopropyl), swish around to get to all the DOT3, then pump the fluid out into waste receptacle. Allow to air dry before capping reservoir. Store out of sunlight, the Ares tank is susceptible to UV degradation over long periods of time (as the "manual" implies).I like this tool.

Seems well made good quality. But if it's for brake bleeding. you will require special caps to fit the different master cylinders. Not sure if they are available. If not. it's really of no use as it will only fit the one master cylinder.

I am amazed. I bought something on Amazon and it actually does what it says it will do, is not a piece of crap, and it got to me on time - definitely not the usual result of an Amazon purchase. The device is absurdly easy to use, does not leak, the cap fits the master cylinder in my car, and best of all it just plain WORKS. Pump it up, put tubing on the bleeder, open the bleeder just a turn or so, and watch the old fluid come out.The device holds at least 3 quarts of fluid. When you are done, push the silver pressure relief valve, hold it for about 15 seconds, and you can remove the cap and reinstall your original master cylinder cap.The only drawback that I found with the item is that it will not work on the old style metal master cylinders with the double square metal covers that are held down with stiff wire bales. It requires that the car have a plastic master cylinder with a round threaded plastic cover. My 1987 Caddilac Allante does and I was able to bleed the master cylinder, ABS accumulator and ABS pump in under 30 minutes.Then I popped the hood on my 1978 Eldorado and discovered the situation with the metal master cylinder. No biggie, I built an adapter from an old cylinder top, but something to be aware of. I believe almost all cars form 1980 or so on will be fine for this tool.