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Build Plate for Creality Ender 3 V3 SE//Ender-3 S1/Ender 5 S1/Ender 3 S1 Pro/Ender V3 KE/K1/ K1C 3D Printers - PEY Build Plate Flexible Sheet 235x235mm (No Magnetic Base) Water Ripples+Wood Grain

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$20.65

$ 10 .07 $10.07

In Stock

1.Style:Water Ripples+wood Grain


  • Compatible 3D Printers: Double-sided spring steel build plate with 235x235mm platform size, , compatible with Ender 3 Neo/Ender 3 V2 Neo/Ender 3 S1/Ender 5 S1/Ender 3 V3/Ender 3 V3 SE/Ender 3 V3 KE/K1/K1C CR-20/ CR-20 Pro/ Voxelab Aquila/Voxelab Aquila C1/ Voxelab Aquila C2, and other similarly-sized FDM 3D printers.Please confirm your 3D printer platform size before ordering.
  • Excellent Adhesion for the First Printing Layer: The model firmly adheres to the print bed surface with excellent adhesion. This makes printing easy, even for beginners. To avoid damaging the coating, please allow the build plate to cool down before removing the model.
  • Easy to Remove: The high-quality spring steel sheet can be bent to quickly remove the model without the need for additional tools, and it will return to its original flatness. Made from durable spring steel, it features high strength, heat resistance, and a dual-sided design.
  • High Temperature Resistance: We recommend these filaments & temperatures for your PEF PEY build plate “PLA: 60~65℃; PETG: 70-80℃”. The PEO print bed surface can withstand high temperatures up to 150℃, while the smooth PET coating bed is resistant up to 120℃. The H1H print bed surface can withstand high temperatures up to 200°C.
  • Easy to Use: simply place the printing plate onto the printer's hot bed, and the print bed leveling will automatically occur when the machine is powered on. Note that the smooth surface has a factory protective film.


GOMENL 3D Printer Build Plate 235 x 235mm
Specification
Size: 235 x 235mm
Compatible with : Creality K1/ K1C/Ender-3 S1/Ender 5 S1/Ender 3 S1 Pro/Ender V3 KE/Ender3 V3 SE (No Magnetic Base)
Packing Include
1x Upgrade 235*235mm Build Plate
Feature
1. Double-sided printing, It is convenient, durable and practical.
2.Suits variety of filaments, especially for PLA.
3.Easy to get the first layer even for a new user.
4. Easy to clean, just wipe it off with a wet tissue or alcohol before printing.
5.Spring steel sheetis made of stainless steel, no matter how bent it is, it can return to flat state.
6.You only need to bend the PED-PEI/PEY-PEI/PEO-PEI/PET-PEI/PEI-PEI with your hands, and the model can be easily demoulded without using other tools.
7.Easy to Install:The PED-PEI/PEY-PEI/PEI-PEO/PET-PEI/PEI-PEI spring steel sheet is flat and flexible, it comes without magnetic base sheet, but could be magnetically attracted to the hotbed, because lab X1 3D printer heated bed is magnetic, just put and print.
Notice
1.There is a protective film on PEO/PET/PED/PEY .Please peel the film before using.
2.Please cool the PEI steel plate before removing the 3D printing model.
3.After our extensive testing, we recommend PEO/PET/PED/PEY to print PLA and TPU and PETG. PEI print PLA /PETG/PC/ABS /TPU /Nylon etc.


Jeremy D Standke
Reviewed in the United States on January 29, 2025
I didn't get many prints off of the build plate before the surface started peeling the clear coat. And I use glue sticks.
Xóch
Reviewed in Mexico on January 10, 2025
Es muy útil y necesaria para las impresiones.
Wombat37
Reviewed in the United States on August 26, 2024
When I first started 3D printing, the bed material was either a sheet of glass or a soft rubbery magnetic material. Both seemed to work okay, but the advent of flexible steel plates coated with polymers like PEI made life much easier. Not only do they seem to work better (at least for me) but they’ve become an art form in their own right. Many have fancy holographic type patterns embedded in the surface and these interesting textures appear on the base of printed models.I got this bed plate from GOMENL because it had an H1H coating that claimed to have a temperature limit of 200°C. I don’t know what H1H is and I’m never likely to approach this 200°C limit but I have had issues with similar plates when printing with nylon or polycarbonate filaments when I take the temperature (just) above 100°C. Hopefully, this new plate will behave better under those conditions.The product arrived very well packaged – there were 4 layers to remove before I could use this plate. The outer packaging was a type of bubble-wrap envelope, inside that was a solid cardboard box, under that was a sealed plastic bag, and finally each side of the plate had an adhesive film that had to be peeled off before use. This plate was coated with H1H on each side with different fancy colorful holographic patterns. I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro printer and while this plate is the correct size for my printer, it does have two locating notches on the rear edge for compatibility with other printers. This means that the back 5mm of the plate could be lost when printing large models. I don’t think this will be a problem for me but it’s worth noting. This plate is steel-based and needs a magnetic pad to be mounted first on the hotbed. No magnetic pad is included with this product which wasn’t a problem for me as I have a few already and didn’t want to pay for more. For new users without an existing magnetic bed, this product is not going to work for you.For my initial tests, I used a matte-black high-speed PLA that I was familiar with. I’ll be using this plate with more exotic filaments later, but I wanted to start with something that I could make a good comparison with other plates. I designed and printed a coffee distributor to level out coffee grains in a portafilter before putting it in an expresso machine. I rinsed the plate before use in soapy water and wiped it over with isopropanol. The bed temperature was set to 60°C throughout the print with a nozzle temperature set to 230°C. In this first print, I didn’t use any additional adhesive. Adhesion was strong until the model and plate had cooled and then the model simply fell off – it was working as expected. The photo shows the result. What was particularly interesting was that the holographic finish seen in the plate was transferred to the base of the printed model. I would probably lose that if I had used glue.
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