Fabulous saw; love it! Used it to cut a bunch of Superstrut at 90/60/45 angles (0/30/45 on scale); worked brilliantly!The saw is solidly built, very accurate, and easy to use. It shipped with a Morse Metal Devil NXT 14” steel cutting blade (CSM1466NSC), which makes precise cuts through 12 gauge 1-5/8 square strut like butter (yes, I used “precise” and “butter” together to describe the cuts…haha…but it’s a fair description). And, I was able to make some 1/16” thick clean 90 degree slices with it when adjusting some strut sizes that were a bit tight. Amazing!Usage Notes:1. This type of saw throws small metal bits (larger than dust, but not swarf) everywhere, but that is typical for a cold cut metal saw. The catch tray under the blade does a great job, but doesn’t get all of it; I’d say it captures about 60-75% of the debris.2. To avoid trashing my workspace until I can set up a cutting area for metal, I worked outside on pavement, and used a wheeled magnetic sweeper to clean up. This will obviously only work for metals like steel (and other ferrous metals that are magnetic; not all are). Will be ordering a magnetic swarf stick to help with cleaning the saw and work area.3. I put a 24x36 metal drip pan under the saw to help keep the immediate area clean(ish) so I wouldn’t get metal bits stuck in my shoe soles. Worked very well.4. Wear proper safety glasses, and a tight knit long-sleeved shirt or jacket! You’ll regret it if you don’t!

I am a fair weather garage hobbyist who had been getting by with a hack saw and a 4.5 inch angle grinder for cutting metal. This is an expensive too and I had to think a lot before spending this much, I am on a budget! For less than the cost of a replacement blade for the Morse I could have bought a cheap abrasive chop saw that might be good enough. However, my past experiences with lower quality tools has not been great, so I bought this Morse. On my first cut I new that I had made the correct choice for me. I have been using it on relatively thin mild steel tubing and angle-iron and it is cutting great. No more sparks, less noise, no fumes, and it cuts quick with a high degree of precision, just a light scattering of chips that sweep up easily. It is a quality tool made in Taiwan that gives every indication of lasting for ever and I feel that I will be appreciating it long after I have forgotten that it was a more expensive tool than I wanted it to be. There are other cheaper tools that would probably have worked well for me, but I am happy with this one. I bought the optional pipe jaws that bolt to the clamp and they work well for me.

The saw is awesome. Fit and finish is almost perfect. Needs a little love right out of box though. Lube clamp threads, adjust stop so if you lean on it a little hard it dosent hit chip tray. My saw came with a 66 tooth blade. Works well but 72 sounded nice. I think its obsolete though. I cant find one. Make sure blade is up to speed before u enter work peice and buy optional v clamp vice because it will save you money in the long run. Blade guard is metal not plexy so thats a plus to me. Blade changes are not as easy as some other models but still only take about 2 min if u have a philips handy. This is most likely the best saw in its class but also the most expencive especially if u count the add on v clamps which is needed in my opinion. Box was beat up but product was fine. If you like fine tools skip the dewalt and others and get this. They are fine tools but this one is closer to industrial abuse standards.

This thing is a monster. There is simply no comparison between a dry-cut saw and an abrasive saw. If you need precision cuts, or even just some assurance that a 90-degree cut will actually come out square, look no further. This saw saves a ton of time both in how fast it cuts and in the amount of work you have to do cleaning up a cut from an abrasive saw.Solidly built frame, and extremely heavy-duty clamp assembly. The horizontal handle and trigger are very comfortable to use both left- and right-handed, and the safety trigger is very easy to operate. The saw says "smooth starting" but it will still jump in your hand... but the mass of the motor and housing dampens that well enough that it isn't an issue. The blade guard completely conceals the blade when the saw is at the top of it's travel, so you must lower it to position work for accurate cuts.My only complaint is that the clamp doesn't have a pivoting quick-release like many other metal-cutting saws, but this doesn't really detract much from the usefulness of the tool... it's just a thing to get used to.I've made hundreds of cuts (almost exclusively A519 alloy 1018 steel) since purchasing this saw in October, and now in mid-December, the supplied blade has about 1/6th of it's teeth dulled, chipped, or broken clean off the blade. It still cuts acceptably in its condition, though not as fast and not as clean as new. Still vastly better than an abrasive blade. If you have the money, this is a must-have machine in any shop and a night-and-day difference from your old abrasive saw. Buy one and enjoy!UPDATE:It is now mid February. I've lost track of how many cuts I've made, but it's a lot. I'm not sure I've made up the difference in cost compared to how many abrasive blades I would have used in the last 5 months, but I'm probably ahead by about $1000 in labor hours. Between the speed of cutting, the fact that cuts don't have to be ground aggressively to remove flashing and burrs, and the accuracy of the angles I can cut now... If you're a business owner and you DON'T have one of these you have failed at life. This saw will save you money every single time you pull the trigger.Here's the scary part: The blade loses teeth. I'm down to about 9 teeth left on this blade (the one that came with the saw). They don't dull, or chip... they just fly off (and hit you in the face sometimes). THE BLADE STILL CUTS. It doesn't seem to notice that almost 90% of the teeth are distributed into the dust I sweep into the recycle bin. It just keeps going. I'll replace it soon with a new blade, but I want to get rid of the last few teeth before I swap it out just to see if it will still cut. I'm certain this is a terrible idea, but I have to know. The most unnerving thing about it is that it almost doesn't seem to cut any slower than when it was new, and it's still vastly better than an abrasive blade in terms of speed and angle accuracy. Ridiculous.

Country of Origin: TAIWAN.MK Morse has a PO Box as their mailing address and is located states-side in Ohio. These types of things all worry me when it comes to buying tools, as I typically focus on buying products that have good support and are made in the US. Especially when it comes to my tools.Anyway, I dont think I had too many options when it came to chop saws. I saw the offerings by Dewalt and Milwaukee but they seemed a bit too bland. A few things that pushed me to buy this product:1) Build quality and construction. Base, clamp, and machine all appear to be heavy duty metal. The scissor-style blade guard doors are very nice.2) Low RPM, high torque. Motor starts smoothly (not abruptly).3) Vise adjustments are all hex bolt. I prefer this over the tool-less designs that other manufacturers offer.4) D-style handle. I was worried that I purchased a side-handle model but rest assured, my machine came with the D-handle. Very comfortable and the safety switch is easy to operate.I'll update this review if there are any downsides to this machine. Besides electronics, this is the first product from overseas that I am truly impressed with.8/30/13 Update:I have been using the machine a lot more lately, and this time with stainless. Do not attempt to cut stainless with the stock blade, it will dullen quickly. For stainless, you will need a 90 tooth blade and it usually has a smaller cutting area (kerf). These blades are NOT cheap. From what I've gathered, Dry Cut saws are only good for softer metals and low volume. If you plan on cutting metal daily, I would highly advise either a band saw OR cold saw, and it is mandatory that they be liquid cooled in order to protect the blade. This immediately puts you in a different price catagory, as a bandsaw/coldsaw will easily cost much more than the asking price of this machine. Remember, blades for these machines are NOT cheap and resharpening services are equally expensive with questionable results. My local store charges $30 per blade to re-sharpen and it takes 1 week. I have not tried that yet. Instead, I picked up some spare blades for ~$100 bucks which is dirt cheap compared to what they usually sell for ($250-300).One thing you guys need to remember is to cut SLOW. If you see sparks, you are cutting too fast and you are work hardening the material.